With Ports from the controversial split vintage declarations of 1991 and 1992 nearing maturity, Richard Mayson considers which shippers made the right choice. Out of 25 Ports tasted, 15 scored above 14.5pts/20 with the 1991 year averaging 14.44pts/20 and 1992 averaging 16.19pts/20. See all 15 Ports here...
Taylor’s, Quinta de Terra Feita, 1991
Very deep, opaque colour – the deepest of the 1991s. Dense, still with more to give on the nose, a good underlying purity of fruit. Full, ripe flavours, well-defined, pure berry fruit backed by firm, ripe tannins, rising in the mouth and leading to a big finish. 17.5pts/20
Price: £40 Mentzendorff
Drink: 2011–2030
Alc: 20.5%.
Taylor’s, Quinta de Vargellas, 1991
Mid-deep centre, showing maturity on the rim. Well-defined berry fruit aromas and just hint of chocolate, still very fresh and youthful perhaps with more to give. Rich, ripe and dense with flesh as well as grip and a linear finish. 15pts/20
Price: £28–£45 Mentzendorff, Tanners
Drink: 2011–2025
Alc: 20.5%
Warre’s, 1991
Mid–deep centre, still looking youthful on the rim. Rather awkward, stewed nose, not showing very well – possibly just a phase in its maturation. Much fresher on the palate, with bittersweet fruit and nice grip and depth on the finish. 15pts/20
Price: £44.40–£53 Fells, Slurp
Drink: 2011–2025
Alc: 20%
Quinta de la Rosa, 1991
Showing maturity both in appearance and on the nose – fragrant, plummy but rather shallow. Soft, sweet and fully mature, pure, fresh flavours. Firm if lightweight and rather short finish. 14.5pts/20
Price: £54 Berry Bros & Rudd
Drink: 2011 – 2021
Alc: 20%
Croft, 1991
Deep, opaque, just turning on the rim. Still quite a dense nose with underlying plummy fruit and floral maturity just starting to emerge. Full, rich and fleshy with some bitter chocolate intensity at the core and a firm tannic grip building towards the finish. 17pts/20
Price: £65–£69 Cozzi & Jenkins, Four Walls, Lay & Wheeler, Roberson
Drink: 2011–2025
Alc: 20.5%
Rozès, 1991
Mid-deep centre, looking youthful on the rim. Attractive plum fruit with floral fragrance, combining depth and elegance. Rich, plummy flavours with broad, ripe tannins lingering on to a linear finish. Not as big as some but well balanced. 16.5pts/20
Price: N/A UK www.rozes.pt
Drink: 2011–2025
Alc: 20%
Ferreira, 1991
Mid-deep garnet with a pink rim – more youthful in appearance than most. Warm, ripe aromas without much fragrance but with more to give and showing some underlying depth. Sweet and fleshy mouthfilling palate, still fresh and driven by berry fruit. Well balanced with good bittersweet length of flavour. 16pts/20
Price: £35 Berkmann
Drink: 2011–2025
Alc: 20%
Graham’s, 1991
Good, deep centre with a thin purple rim. Ripe, and quite dense, plums and cherries but still a bit subdued perhaps with more to give on the nose. Fleshy, firm and full palate with ripe spicy tannins rising in the mouth. Not as quite well defined as some other 1991s but finishing well. 15.5pts/20
Price: £54.95–£56 Fells, Slurp
Drink: 2011–2025
Alc: 20%
Delaforce, Quinta de Corte, 1991
Mid-deep, just turning on the rim. Quite rich in style, some depth here, open, mature aromas with a touch of gum cistus for complexity. Soft and rich but with some flesh and a core to give it focus and a touch of dark chocolate intensity and firm spicy tannins. 15pts/20
Price: £26 Everywine
Drink: 2011–2021
Alc: 20.5%
Quinta de la Rosa, 1991
Showing maturity both in appearance and on the nose – fragrant, plummy but rather shallow. Soft, sweet and fully mature, pure, fresh flavours. Firm if lightweight and rather short finish. 14.5pts/20
Price: £54 Berry Bros & Rudd
Drink: 2011 – 2021
Alc: 20%
Taylor’s, 1992
Deep and opaque. Still going through an awkward adolescence on the nose with much more to give. Lovely rich, fleshy fruit – powerful with bittersweet chocolate intensity, good depth and a wonderful finish. 18.5pts/20
Price: £120–£144 Cadman, Caviste, Connollys, Tanner Underwood
Drink: 2015–2030
Alc: 20.5%
Delaforce, 1992
Good deep centre, broad purple rim. Lovely, open berry fruit aromas, a touch floral with good purity and definition. Soft, supple, succulent flavours with a bittersweet core. This hangs together really well – a good grip leading to a lovely linear finish. 17.5pts/20
Price: £45 Oxford Wine Co
Drink: 2011–2025
Alc: 21%
Quinta do Infantado, 1992
Good deep, opaque colour. Ripe, vibrant, plummy aromas. Very attractive palate – quite rich, dense, peppery fruit and tannins with good purity and definition leading to a bittersweet finish. This has real integrity. 17.5pts/20
Price: £28.15 Everywine, Liberty Wines, Slurp
Drink: 2011–2025
Alc: 19.5%
Quinta do Vesúvio, 1992
Very deep opaque core with a brick-red rim. Still tight-knit, closed with more to give on the nose, underlying concentration and ripeness. Lovely rich, well-ripened fruit – quite powerful with plenty of depth and flesh, and a slightly angular finish. 17.5pts/20
Price: £76.05–£85 Fells, Slurp
Drink: 2011–2031
Alc: 19.5%
Fonseca, 1992
Mid-deep colour with a youthful pink rim. An awkward nose, still not giving much away with underlying depth. Rich and fleshy, not as big as some its peers but this wine has balance and elegance. Powerful. 16.5pts/20
Price: £72–£78 Fine & Rare, House of Townsend, Jeroboams, Lay & Wheeler
Drink: 2013–2030
Alc: 20.5%
Graham’s, Malvedos, 1992
Mid-deep colour with a broad purple rim. Attractive, open, fragrant aromas – good purity of fruit. Rich, sweet and fleshy, some depth but more loose-knit, making it completely ready to drink. 16pts/20
Price: £36 Fells
Drink: 2011–2025
Alc: 20%
Original post: http://www.decanter.com/wine/labels/33988/slideshow/1/expert-s-choice-vi...
